Bruges (FR) or Brugge (NL) – the name comes from Bryggja, the old Scandinavian word for harbour/mooring place – is the most visited place in Belgium. Despite the hordes of tourists and excess of chocolate, waffle, lace and souvenir shops, it is still charming. The city is a great destination if you have family/friends visiting or if you want to an excursion with your children, or if you just want (need?) a bigger chocolate fix.
Head 100km northwest of central Brussels (1h20 by car or 1h50 by train) to the ‘Venice of the North’, ‘Die Scone’ (the beautiful one) or the city of fools, ‘The Crazies’ (the Brugse zotten). The latter nickname originates from medieval times when Emperor Maximiliaan I of Austria had been locked up in Bruges for four months during the city’s struggle for more independence. After his release, Maximiliaan was asked by the locals to allow the city to build a madhouse. Understandably a little annoyed, his reply was “Close all the city gates and it is a madhouse”. Hence the name and logo of the locally-brewed beer, Brugse Zot. So first, a little history…
After Julius Caesar’s Roman conquest, a fortification was built on the site to protect the coastal area against pirates. Three centuries later, the Franks took over the ‘Pagus Flandrensis’ – the oldest Latin name of Flanders. Then came the Vikings, bringing trade with England and Scandinavia. The 12th century saw the city receive a charter, enabling the construction of the canals and reinforcement of the city walls. The city became a vibrant trading hub as an inland port directly connected with the North Sea. In 1134 a tidal wave during a storm created a 15km natural channel, the Zwin river. As a result, Bruges became Europe’s main trading centre until around 1500, when the Zwin river became blocked with silt and shipping activity moved to Antwerp. A century later, this small town was known for its lace and then in 1892 for being ‘dead’, when the Belgian author, Georges Rodenbach, wrote a short novel, ‘Bruges la Morte’.
Until then, residents were primarily religious orders but the city was rediscovered in the late 19th century and became an attractive tourist destination for French and British visitors. In 2024 the city attracted 7 million tourists* … but don’t be put off. They come for a reason. Below are few of the highlights and tips for a family visit.
A unique way to visit the sights with a commentary from the driver, at a leisurely pace.
Tip: Dress appropriately for cold or wet weather.
Join a commentated scenic boat ride to spot secret gardens, medieval facades and romantic bridges. Probably some swans too. According to legend, the city’s inhabitants were ordered to keep them on their canals for eternity, when Emperor Maximilian punished the city after his advisor was executed on the market square.
Tip: Book in advance or go early or late to avoid the crowds. The boats are not covered, so dress appropriately for cold or wet weather. Alternatively, discover the canals on foot.
Photo of the Belfry in Brugge by Hongbin on Unsplash
Your children will probably overtake you as you climb/stagger up the 366 steps to the top of this city’s landmark, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was built in 1240 as a medieval bell tower and market hall. It once housed a treasury, municipal archives and was used as a watchtower.
Tip: There are spectacular views from the top, if your stomach and legs can take it.
Opposite the Belfry is the Grote Markt. The first market was recorded here in the 10th century. Boats unloaded directly from the River Reie into the warehouses built here. The square was also home to a fish market, then corn market, tournaments and executions. On one side of the square you will see the Provincial Hof, the provincial palace of West Flanders, a mix of medieval architecture and impressive 19th century neo-gothic buildings.
Tip: Visit the café or shop to admire the architecture.
The oldest part of the city, on the site of a former fortified castle, built by the first Count of Flanders to protect land from invading Normans and Vikings.
On one side you will see the Gothic façade of the 14th century Stadhuis or Town Hall. The Renaissance façade was a former court of justice.
Also on this square is the Basilica of Holy Blood, completed in 1156 to house a relic bought to Bruges by the Count of Flanders. A piece of cloth, believed to have been used by Joseph of Arimathea to wipe the blood of Christ after the Crucifixion.
Tip: You can see the Holy Blood during the Veneration mass every day from 14:00-16:00 and every Friday from 10:15-11:00. In the Treasury you can see a short film of the Holy Blood during the Ascension Day procession, a tradition which dates back to 1304.
The O.L.V.-kerk is another Bruges landmark, as its tower is the tallest structure in the city, at 115m. Supposedly the second highest brick-built tower in the world (after the 130m tower of St Martin’s Church, Landshut, Germany). Built between the 13th and 15th century, the Church of Our Lady has a famous altarpiece, which enshrines the Madonna and Child created by Michaelangelo in 1504. The statue was donated to this church in 1514 by two Bruges merchants who bought it in Italy. Fortunately, it is still here. Foreign invaders stole the sculpture twice – once by French revolutionaries in 1794 and then by the Nazis in 1944. The release of the 2014 film The Monuments Men brought an influx of tourists to the church to see this treasure, which you now have to pay to see.
Tip: Buy a timed-ticket online or in-person ahead of time to avoid the ticket desk queues.
This UNESCO World Heritage Site is a charming cluster of small houses inside a protective wall around a garden and church. It’s like a town within a town and is typical of those built in the 13th century in the Low Countries to house unmarried or widowed women (gender imbalance after the Holy Land Crusades). Women lived here in dignity, not poverty, caring for the sick and elderly and making textiles.
Tip: Visit in silence. Today it is still the home of a few nuns from the Order of St Benedict and Order of Vincent de Paul, as well as single women. Please be respectful.
If you still have some energy or if the weather is bad, you have many fabulous museums to choose from. You could be tempted by a medieval hospital, a 17th century hospital pharmacy, six centuries of Belgian visual arts, 500 years of Bruges history or a folk museum. Not forgetting the Fries museum and Choco-Story.
* Finally, a word about over-tourism. In the last few years, as in other popular European cities, the city council has been trying to tackle this problem, which leaves the city suffocating under the weight of day-trippers. Measures have been taken to somewhat relieve the centre – limits have been brought in on cruise ships, tour buses and holiday accommodation.
Tip: Book an overnight stay to truly enjoy Bruges before/after the day visitors arrive/leave. Even better, stay 2 nights to discover more of the region. Nearby Ypres and the WWI battlefields are a 50-minute drive away.
See the autumn 2025 issue of Small Talk for a family-friendly guide to Ypres.
By Alison Plater, info@bctbelgium.org
This article was first published in the 2025 winter edition of the BCT’s Small Talk magazine.
